It’s no secret that we have a thing for vintage Audemars Piguet watches here at Stetz & Co., as anyone who follows our Instagram (@stetzcowatches) and Facebook accounts (www.facebook.com/stetzcowatches) will know. It’s also no secret that it was famed watch designer Gerald Genta that designed the Royal Oak among other iconic watches. Highly interesting yet lesser known is the fact that from the mid 1950’s into the 1970’s Genta was designing most, if not all of AP’s watches. The language of his design spoke to us on different levels, and though his designs were varied there was a certain ever present undertone that could always be traced back to him.
“…Since 1953! I had been creating for Audemars Piguet for nearly 20 years, their entire collection. All classic Audemars Piguet pieces are made by Gerald Genta. Up until the time of the Royal Oak.” -Gerald Genta, 2009
Here we take a closer look at three special Audemars Piguet watches birthed from the mind of one of the greatest watch designers of all time.
1961 REF. 3123 BA CAL K2071
A mid century time only watch in yellow gold isn’t particularly exciting in and of itself, but this reference 3123 BA in yellow gold distinguishes itself in a few ways. First is size – it’s a particularly large 36mm in diameter excluding the slightly recessed crown, allowing it to measure up with most modern dress pieces. The second way, hinted at by the small “AUTOMATIC” text found on the dial is the caliber K2071 self winding movement found under the hood. The K2071 was the premier self winding movement used by Audemars Piguet at the time, replacing the earlier K2499 automatic. Made in limited quantities (total production is believed to be less than 800), the K2071 was designed to compete directly with the Patek Philippe 12-600 and 27-460 automatic and was considered one of the best automatic movements in the world. Thirdly, it was retailed by Zürich based jeweler Türler, a detail confirmed by the signature discreetly displayed on its dial.
1961 K2001
Next up is a stunningly preserved time only piece in yellow gold. The case and bezel are comprised of one solid piece of beautifully machined gold and feature a brushed finish on the sides and lug tops giving way to a high polished bezel. Its hard to imagine a purer design. The dial with its undersized applied pointed bars is spartan, but a perfect compliment in proportion, color and texture creating a design the whole of which transcends the constraints of time. Indeed, we see similar designs in the Patek Philippe reference 570, and in modern Calatrava-inspired offerings from independent Japanese watchmakers Yusuke Kikuchi and Tomonari Nakagawa. Check out more of this watch in our shop.
1967 REF. 5043BC CAL 2003
If this watch looks familiar, it’s because the design was present in the AP lineup for decades. This “ultra-thin” case design can be traced back to the early 1950s, possibly coinciding with the 1953 release of the caliber 2003 found inside, and is one of AP’s longest continuously running designs aside from the Royal Oak. What makes this watch special is the extremely rare combination of a factory black dial in a white gold case. Vintage Audemars Piguet watches with verifiably authentic factory black dials number in the handful, and to find a dial like this cased in an uncommonly used metal like white gold is a special treat. It’s not out of the question that the piece is completely unique.
