Maintaining an orbit in the pre-Royal Oak Audemars Piguet space comes with a few universal truths; foremost, it’s a place where patience reigns supreme as the essential character trait. Vintage watch collectors are generally a patient bunch, but the minuscule number of watches produced by Audemars Piguet during the mid-20th century dictates the necessity for an especially keen eye and a quick draw. Further, only a small percentage were made in larger 35mm and up cases sizes, so on the off chance an example makes it to the open market (providing condition and price are right), they usually don’t stick around for long. Which is why when a collector like Dr. Uwe Hahmann (IG handle @UWE1610) comes along the community takes note. Uwe’s collection is home to some of the rarest and most exquisite time-only Audemars Piguet watches to leave Le Brassus during the middle of the last century, and we were honored when he agreed to chat a bit about what makes him and his collection tick.
Thanks so much, Dr. Hahmann, for taking the time out of your busy schedule to chat. For those that may not be familiar, can you tell us a little about yourself?
“Thank you for having me on your Collector Profile interview. It is a real pleasure for me. I live in Germany and am a biologist specialized in neurobiology, particularly the fundamental processes of the nervous system and various human neurodegenerative diseases such as Alzheimer and Parkinson disease. I have worked in this field for more than three decades.”
How did you get started collecting watches? When did Audemars Piguet enter the picture?
“As a researcher with a strong interest in the fascinating and complex nature of the human nervous system, I am curious to know how it has developed and how it works. Therefore, it did not take long to discover the world of horology and its small and fascinating mechanical marvels. I have been collecting vintage wristwatches from Switzerland for more than 2 decades.
Initially, my interest focused on vintage chronographs from the Swiss manufacture “Angelus”. Very soon my interest in vintage watches shifted to the early wristwatches from Audemars Piguet, in particular dress watches from the 1940’s to the 1960’s.”
Can you explain what it is about vintage watches that appeals to you?
“It certainly is a combination of various factors that make vintage watches and in particular vintage Audemars Piguet appealing to me.
For example, the combination of the high standards of craftsmanship and how watches were produced in the past I find fascinating. In particular, the quality of the movement, the pure aesthetic of the different dial configurations and the fascinating variations of the case design intrigue me, but also the historical importance and rarity of a particular model and the fact that each vintage watch can tell us a little story if we have hints enough to read its specific history. After all, vintage watches are little time capsules from the past.”
Is there anything modern in your collection?
“Not really, the” youngest” member of my little collection is the first automatic Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calender from 1980.”
Your collection is comprised of a very particular sub-category of vintage AP – specifically VZ and K2499/K2071/72 automatic based pieces. What specific characteristics are you drawn to?
“It is not easy to pinpoint the charactistics of these sub-categories that appeal to me most. Among them is the sophisticated craftsmanship of the different movements, when one thinks about the tools and machines available at the time. The fact that AP manufactured only a very limited amount of each sub-category and yet with an astonishing diversity of case and dial variations within each category is amazing, as are the pure understated and minimalistic aesthetics of the dial. The rarity of these vintage AP’s and the simple fact that they are still affordable I find truly interesting.”
What takes precedence – mechanics, aesthetics, or a combination of the two?
“It certainly is a combination of mechanics and aesthetics, which in my opinion should ideally go hand in hand. For instance, I would not collect a particular wristwatch only because of a rare movement if the case or dial design did not appeal to me as well.”
Your watches seem to be mostly larger cased varieties of AP, which are naturally a bit scarcer. Is there a certain case size range you gravitate to?
“Yes, a watch should fit to my wrist within a certain range. Of course, if I would discover a very interesting watch with a much smaller case size I certainly would tolerate this compromise. However, I am not interested in relatively large watches with a case size above 40 mm.”
Was there ever “one that got away”?
“Yes, sadly I once owned a beautiful 18K Angelus Chronodato Chronograph in mint condition and sold it. Back then, more than 10 years ago, I didn’t realize what an exceptional beauty I owned and gave away. I still regret this sale. But it was an important lesson: never sell a watch without careful consideration. Luckily, since then I never regreted any sold watch.”
Occasionally in my experience a good deal of the fun of ownership lies in the process of the acquisition. Do you find this to be true? If so, can you share a particularly interesting hunt that comes to mind?
“I totally agree with you. The process of acquisition is certainly not a minor part of the fun for me. This can include an internet search for months or even years with patience and persistence to find a specific watch model I am interested in. But it can also mean discovering an unknown watch model with little or no information available in the literature, or the owner regarding for instance the movement inside an unopened watchcase.
This was the case in the acquisition process of my time-only Audemars Piguet Ref. 5007 with Valjoux VZ caliber from 1959.
I found a photo of this watch on the homepage of an antique shop in Japan with a very short description of the watch in Japanese. After contacting the dealer in English I realized that he didn’t understand my questions regarding different properties of the watch. With the help of Google I was at least able to communicate rudimentarily in Japanese with the dealer and knew the size of the watch and its functioning status. Unfortunately, he was not able or willing to remove the case back and take a photo of the movement so I could only guess what movement could possibly tick inside the case. With only limited knowledge about this watch model but some hint that the watch could possibly be powered by a Valjoux VZ caliber movement, I decided to buy it.
A few weeks later I was very excited when it arrived from Japan. The overall condition of the case and dial were very promising. After carefully removing the case back I discovered a beautiful preserved Valjoux VZ caliber in very good condition with all the hallmarks of an Audemars Piguet Ref. 5007 inside the case back.”
There is a certain level of purity that can be expressed through the design of a time-only watch that tends to be lost upon the addition of complications. The most obvious culprit is the aesthetically polarizing date window. If you had to choose, all else being equal – date or no date?
“I certainly would choose the time-only watch without the date window because of the more balanced proportion and aesthetics of the dial.”
I have to ask – is there a current favorite in the collection?
“This is a very difficult question since IMO there are some very beautiful time-only dress watches from AP in my little collection. Therefore, it comes with no surprise that my “favorite” varies from time to time. However, the AP Valjoux Cal. VZASC with the Roman indices or the AP Ref. 5007 with Valjoux VZSSC movement and beautifully sculpted indices are certainly among them.”
I was particularly captivated by one of your latest acquisitions; the 1957 VZSS with crosshair dial and beautifully sculpted yellow gold case. Can you tell us about it?
“There is a little story behind the acquisition of this beauty. I discovered this watch about three years ago on the homepage of a watch dealer in Israel. Since I had never before seen such an unusually yet beautifully sculpted case combined with a tilted crosshair dial at any other Audemars Piguet, I was very curious to get more information about the movement. After intense but unsuccessful internet research I decided to contact the dealer and ask him for a photo of the watch movement. Sadly, the only information I received was about the case size and price of the watch. However, since the case is relatively small and could accommodate different AP calibers, including a possible Valjoux VZSS movement, I found a purchase too risky and decided not to buy it.
To my amazement, I found the same AP model two years later on the homepage of a recognized watch dealer in the US with a photo of a Valjoux VZSS movement. I did not contact the dealer for a possible acquisition since the dial had some imperfections. However, it reminded me of the watch I had seen in Israel two years earlier. Fortunately, that watch was still available from the dealer in Israel, so with two years delay I did finally acquire this beauty from him.
I later learned from the literature that the case maker of this beautifully sculpted yellow gold case was Cedex, Charles Dubois, SA in Le Locle, Switzerland. The company started business in 1947 and sadly closed for good in 1982.”
We know based on his last interview that Gerald Genta designed Audemars Piguets entire line beginning in 1953 up until the release of the Royal Oak in ’73. What do you think it was that distinguished his creations from other contemporary designs?
“Not much is known about other contemporary watch designer, but Genta’s legendary contribution to watchmaking certainly stands out by his unique aesthetic, incredible creativity and innovation to combine new shapes and forms. With a sharp eye and fascination for nature, he observed how it evolves an endless variety of shapes and forms and drew inspiration from nature for his creativity in watch design.”
What’s on your wrist right now?
“I wear all of my watches from time to time and choose a particular one depending on the specific event or occasion. However, during a normal business day, for example in the laboratory, I prefer a robust and reliable watch like my IWC Automatic Cal. 8541 in stainless steel.”
Is there anything specific you’re hunting for at the moment?
“Not a specific one but certainly a vintage Audemars Piguet. Since AP manufactured only a very limited amount of watches between 1940’s and 1970’s, and since little is known about these sometimes unique pieces, I find it very exciting to hunt for them –like an unknown treasure.”
One thing current brands are doing right?
“I cannot say much about current brands and whether they are doing things right or not because I am mainly focused on vintage Audemars Piguet. It is nice to know that AP cares very much about their heritage and that the Heritage Department provides detailed information about all of their complicated watches from the past. One current brand, however, stands out for me with respect to their craftsmanship, beautiful and sometimes minimalistic design and brand philosophy, and that is A. Lange & Söhne.”
Do you have a set of principles that guide your collecting?
“Yes, I collect only vintage watches that appeal to me in terms of their preserved condition, the dial and case aesthetics, the movement and the rarity of the watch. Needless to say, a new acquisition must also meet my current financial watch budget.”
Any advice to budding collectors?”
“I can only repeat the advice that so many other collectors give to budding collectors: Collect only pieces that “speak“ to your heart and appeal to you emotionally, and also fit your financial budget. Try to find a watch in original and overall good condition in regards to the dial, case and movement. Do not consider the acquisition of a vintage watch as a primary or exclusive money investment. And do not “blindly” follow the current trends or mainstream in the watch industry.”
