With record auction results regularly making news, vintage watch collecting has earned a well deserved reputation for rapidly depleting bank accounts. Thankfully, it doesn’t have to take a mint to build an exceptional collection of vintage watches if you’re looking in the right place. Here are five of our personal favorite brands we look to for maximum bang-for-buck, and why we love them.
1.) Girard-Perregaux – Girard-Perregaux has the rich history one would expect from a brand that’s been around for over 200 years (since 1791 to be exact). Monarchs and heads of state have called Girard-Perregaux watches their own. The modern brand is top tier, considered on par with the likes of Blancpain and Lange. Vintage offerings vary greatly but overall quality is high, and it’s relatively easy to find well preserved examples with solid metal cases and desirable features like screw-down case backs.
2.) Mido – While its modern day positioning as a gateway luxury brand by its owner, the Swatch Group, has resulted in a largely forgettable product line, the Mido of the 1940s and ‘50s was a horological tour de force. Watches were well designed, robust and had a unique look and feel. Many of the watches utilized cases made by renown case maker Francois Borgel, then owned by Taubert Freres, who manufactured cases for some of the most sought after references for Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin during the same time period. A telltale sign that a case was made by Borge is the signature domed “mushroom” crown.
3.) Longines – It’s true that Longines chronographs, especially those from the 1940s and 50s are quite popular and also relatively pricey, but many of their best time-only counterparts have largely escaped the spotlight and still represent a great value for the boxes they check. Some 1940s offerings, particularly 35mm and up “Calatrava-esque” cases with step bezels and sector dials can range upward in price, but many other stylish, well-designed pieces can be found well under the $2500 mark. The “Ultra-Chron” line represents a fantastic value, with varied sizes and styles and a technically superior high-beat automatic movement running at 36,000 vibrations per hour, double the typical 18,000, giving the wearer an ultra-smooth sweeping seconds hand.
4.) Jaeger LeCoultre – Known as the watchmakers watchmaker, Jaeger LeCoutre isn’t a name that’s by any stretch of the imagination obscure, but beautiful, well-designed pieces from the 1940s through the ‘70’s can still be had for a relative song. Size can be a drawback for those who prefer larger cases, but for those who don’t mind diving sub 36mm there are deals to be had.
5.) IWC – Vintage IWC is an anomaly in the world of watches. The modern brand is quite popular, offering high quality watches of attractive design at a moderate price point. A quick search online will turn up a plethora of great looking watches in larger sizes with technically superb movements, both automatic and hand winding. Taking this into account one would expect the brands vintage offerings to command more of a premium than they do, giving collectors a great opportunity to snap up quality watches for a relative bargain. A word of caution for new buyers – the vintage IWC market is a favorite of dial refinishers and restorers. When buying ensure you’re familiar with the seller and know what you’re getting.
