Today, Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak are synonymous, the iconic line defining the brand arguably more than any single line of any other watchmaking house. Conceived by designer Gerald Genta in a single night in 1972, its octagonal bezel and counterintuitive screws are instantly recognizable. And while there’s no disputing the Royal Oaks’ status as a brand icon, it was the nearly 100 years of fine watchmaking that came before that established AP as one of the best in the business.
The story of Audemars Piguet began in 1875 in the small Swiss village of Le Brassus, when a twenty-two year old watchmaker named Jules Louis Audemars signed a ten year partnership agreement with twenty-four year old watchmaker Edward August Piguet. The remote town, nestled in the heart of the Vallée de Joux in the Jura Mountains, offered the perfect mix of ingredients for watchmaking – a plentiful supply of iron ore, timber, and, thanks to long and particularly brutal winters, no shortage of time to perfect the craft.
It was through this relentless dedication that AP established themselves as one of the three great “Holy Trinity” watchmaking houses along side the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. What many may not know is that Audemars Piguet produced far fewer watches than either Patek or Vacheron, a trend that holds true to this day. In 1929 the crash on Wall Street had left the Swiss watch industry reeling. Only a single watch left AP’s workbenches that year. Three years later in 1932 production had doubled to two. Ten years later, during the height of the second world war, production was chugging along at 395. Even at it’s peak, triple digit production numbers were not uncharacteristic of the manufacture, who employed at most 30 watchmakers during the 1950’s. The focus was and always had been on quality and craft rather than scale.
AP made a name for themselves producing highly complicated watches, claiming the Grand Complication as their signature specialization. For those not familiar, a watch is considered a Grand Complication if, and only if a perpetual calendar, split second chronograph, moon phase, minute repeater and grand and petite sonnerie are included in addition to the time. In an era before digital machining this was nothing short of a minor miracle. The pieces seen here may not be complicated, but characterize both the elegance and simplicity Audemars Piguet was known and loved for during the “Golden Era” of watchmaking.
1926 9”’ SV 15/12
AP’s early wristwatches didn’t carry reference numbers. Instead serial numbers were utilized for individual identification and the type of movement used as a designator. Dating to 1926 and crafted of 18kt white gold, this diminutive tank measures 23.75mm wide and just over 31mm lug to lug. The original silvered dial has aged to an off white with railroad style minute track and bubbly, stylized arabic numerals filled with radium. Champlevé enamel dials like this were designed to stand the test of time. Channels were first carved into the surface then filled with enamel and fired, giving the markings a slightly raised look and extreme durability. The dial with its high visibility lume filled indices was not common to AP, who at the time favored a more understated and subdued look. Inside is a 17 jewel 9″‘ SV 15/12 hand winding movement adjusted to temperatures and two positions and beautifully decorated with Côtes de Genève. This watch can be found in our shop here.
1944 VZ RG
Full disclosure: this watch was re-cased at some point during its existence, probably early on, and the dial has been refinished. The only clue to the origin of the 18kt rose gold case are French hallmarks found stamped into the sides and back. In addition to its Art Deco styling, the watch features screwed lug bars and a knurled crown, also in solid rose gold. We chose to present it here out of respect and love for the beautifully finished VZ 3/4 plate movement inside.
From the 1920’s into the 1980’s Audemars Piguet used approximately 2000 Valjoux 13″‘ VZ ebauches in different configurations. Some became chronographs, calendars and other complicated pieces, and some became simple time only watches. Because the 13”’ VZ was initially designed as a chronograph it supplied enough power to handle the added friction that came with the additional components of a chronograph mechanism. If these parts were removed the added power could be used to create a more precise movement. Because of its reliability and robust design, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and others used a number of these “stripped” VZ movements when assembling their ultra precise competition watches. These movements were adjusted to multiple positions and finished to the highest levels, with beveled and polished bridge plate edges, geneva stripes, perlage, and black polished screw heads. Even today the 13″‘ VZ is regarded as one of the finest movements created. It was used in Patek Philippe’s famed ref. 1518 chronograph and was the base for the Vacheron Constantin caliber 434.
1945 VZASC
As the name belies, the watch here is VZ powered as well but differentiates itself with a central sweep seconds hand. Under the crystal lies a simple, white opaline dial with minimalist applied furniture in gold. Even hours are represented by arabic numerals and odd by pointed bars with peaked facets. The signature tells us that this dial was retouched at some point, as a correct 1940’s dial would bear the longer “AUDEMARS, PIGUET & Co.” signature. The case measures 34mm and is crafted of 18kt yellow gold with rounded sides and long, horned lugs. Simplicity is the overarching theme, a concept that epitomized Audemars Piguet watches of this era. The VZASC under the hood differs from the standard 19 jewel VZ with the addition of a jeweled center seconds bridge. Also note that the position of the winding crown is rotated clockwise just over 90 degrees when compared to the standard VZ. This watch can be seen in our shop here.
1956 REF. 5112BA, CAL 2499
Next a rare treat: a 1956 reference 5112BA with striking original black gilt dial. The yellow gold case is a modern 35mm and houses AP’s automatic winding caliber 2499. The 2499 was one of AP’s first auto wind wrist watch calibers, with 21 jewels, blued screws heads, a swan neck regulator and a beautifully machined 18kt gold weighted rotor. Audemars Piguet produced 700 of these movements from 1953 until it was replaced by the K2071 in 1959. This watch has a few features that make it special. The aforementioned glossy black dial is something not commonly seen on vintage AP. Then there’s the gold gilt branding and crosshairs. The applied pointed bars with sharp facets and high polish finish… All of these features combine to make a captivating and potentially unique watch, not out of the question when considering AP’s limited production. If an identical piece exists it has to this point managed to elude social media, the internet as a whole and any AP reference material. Any additional insight on this piece or another like it is welcomed.
1956 REF. 5093 “DISCO VOLANTE” ULTRA-THIN, CAL 2003, RETAILED BY GÜBELIN
Known as the “Disco Volante” or flying saucer, the reference 5093 was produced in several variations marketed as either “thin” or “ultra-thin”. This version was the flagship of the 5093, with a broad, modernist engine turned bezel and three tone white dial, and was available on either a strap or integrated bracelet. Each of these dials was hand painted by a skilled artisan, making the inevitable small variations a part of the charm. Because of its 35mm width and thin design, it wears quite large on the wrist. The dial of this watch also bears the co-brand “GÜBELIN“, for the Swiss luxury jeweler that retailed it in the 1950’s.
The caliber 2003 inside was developed as a joint project between AP, Vacheron and Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1953. Based on the earlier 9ML, it was just 1.32mm thick. Because of it’s success the caliber 2003 was used by AP for half a century.
1960 REF. 5150BA, CAL 2001
Another classic gold dress watch, this one in yellow gold dating to 1960. The symmetric design of the 33.65mm case is enhanced by its sloping faceted lugs and recessed crown, giving the watch a timeless look and wearability. The dial is a clean satin silver with applied pointed faceted bars in gold marking the hours, while the cross hair marked subsidiary seconds is subtly nostalgic. Inside is the versatile AP caliber 2001 with 18 jewels and adjusted to four positions.
1968 REF. 5286BA, CAL K2120
A slightly different brand of elegance, this yellow gold dress watch characterizes the late 1960’s with its square face and thin 5.3mm tonneau shaped case. The vertically brushed gold dial shifts with the angle and source of light. Applied black baton indices lend subtle contrast, as do the simple black baton hands.
Introduced as the worlds thinnest full rotor self winding movement, the caliber K2120 inside was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in the 1960’s as the cal. 920. Interestingly JLC never used the movement themselves, but a version was used by both Patek Philippe (cal. 28-255) and Vacheron Constantin (cal. 1120). Measuring just 2.45mm thick, the K2120 boasts 35 jewels, a 21kt gold weighted rotor, and a special screwless balance. See more of this watch in our shop here.
1973 REF. 5369ST, K2002/1A
Prior to the launch of the Royal Oak in 1972, steel was not a case material regularly used by AP. This tonneau shaped steel watch measures 33.5mm excluding the crown and dates from 1973, and, like the Royal Oak, traces its origins to designer Gerald Genta. A sparse and balanced design, the brushed top and sides are accented by the polished bevels separating them. The case itself features a robust multi part design utilizing four internal screws that, when tightened compress a rubber gasket between the case back and crystal.
Powering the watch is the transitional K2002/1A hand winding movement. Some resources indicate that this was a transitional movement and was produced in limited quantity of 200.
We all love a bargain, and the present vintage market has allowed access to beautiful vintage Audemars Piguet watches like these for a fraction of their “Holy Trinity” peers. An undeniable value when considering the brands rich heritage, limited production and high caliber movements. And for collectors, for the moment, a sparsely populated yet highly rewarding place to be.